Andes

Urus + Tocllaraju + Alpamayo


Expedition

Urus + Tocllaraju + Alpamayo

is the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Ever since it was first climbed in 1951, alpinists have been flocking to attempt its fluted Southwest Face. Many fledgling high altitude climbers consider this peak a culmination of their early climbing careers. It has often been named by climbers, magazines, and trekkers, “the most beautiful mountain in the world”. Alpamayo deserves these accolades. Summit day consists of 1,500 feet (450 meters) of perfect two-tooled ice and neve (styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. You know you are close to reaching the top when you begin to see light through the face from the other side. And on a good year, you can actually top out on the summit ridge, with one foot dangling down each of its almost vertical faces


Summary
  • Altitude
    5947
  • Price
    3500
  • Type
    Expedition
  • Days
    17
  • Place
    Perú
  • Season
    June - July - August
  • Day 1
    Arrival in Lima and bus to Huaraz. Reception at the airport and transfer to the bus terminal to travel for 8 hours to the city of Huaraz. It usually starts at noon to arrive at night, if you arrive in the city of Lima in the afternoon because you take the bus at night and arrive very early the next day to the city of Huaraz.
  • Day 2
    Churup acclimatization This day we go to the Churup lagoon 4 450m a good one day walk that serves us for our process of acclimatization at the same time it serves to organize all the transport logistics food transport for the following days. Night hotel in Huaraz.
  • Day 3
    Huaraz – Ishinca Base Camp 4350masl Drive about 1½ hours from Huaraz to Collon or Pashpa (3400masl). Then go up to the Ishinca Gorge on the quiet trail until the camp at the end of the valley. 4-5 hours.
  • Day 4
    CB 4350masl - Urus 5450masl - CB Ascent very quiet and used like acclimatization, about 4 hours to Urus Summit and then return to the Base Camp.
  • Day 5
    Ascent to Campo Morena Tocllaraju 5300masl Ascent to Tocllaraju Campo Morrena (5300masl) about 3 - 4 hours.
  • Day 6
    ocllaraju Summit 6032masl and descent to Ishinca CB ascent very early to the Tocllaraju Summit. The route has quiet slopes of snow, some big cracks, snow bridges and some steep edges & exposed 70 degrees. There is one of 65 mts aprox to climb under the Summit and is a little exposed. Return to the Base Camp. 12-14 hours.
  • Day 7
    Ishinca CB - Huaraz Descent 3 hours and then drive to Huaraz to recover energy.
  • Day 8
    Rest day in Huaraz
  • Day 9
    Huaraz - Llamacorral 3760m Transfer in private transportation at 8:00 from Huaraz to Cashapampa 2900m where the donkies and arriero will be waiting to carry the equipment to Llamacorral Camp. 5 hours hike aprox.
  • Day 10
    Llamacorral 3760m - Campo Base Alpamayo 4600m Approximately a 6h walk from Llamacorral to the base camp of Alpamayo in the Arhuaycocha valley.
  • Day 11
    Campo Base 4600m – Campo Morrena 4950m You move from the base camp to the Morraine camp, approx. 3-4h walk
  • Day 12
    Campo Morrena – C1 5500m A 4-5h walk from the Morraine camp to Camp 1
  • Day 13
    C1 – Summit 5947m - CB Summit day. A 4-6h ascend to the summit of Alpamayo and 3-4h descend to Camp one. (Or if you feel great descend all the way to the base camp.)
  • Day 14
    CB - Llamacorral Descending to the base camp to Llamacorral
  • Day 15
    Llamacorral - Huaraz About 3 hours from Llamacorral to Cashapampa and take or transfer to Huaraz.
  • Day 16
    Huaraz Lima
  • Day 17
    Extra day

  • Bus lima- huaraz - lima
  • Transfer from the airport to bus station
  • Hotel huaraz / 05 nights
  • Mountain guide uiagm (2 clients)
  • Equipment and food porter (no personal equipment), cooker, arrieros, donkies.
  • Transfer huaraz – beggining and end of the activity – huaraz
  • Full meals in the mountain
  • Bi personal tent, dining tent, kitchen tent.
  • Ticket to national park huascaran
  • First aid kit.
  • Rope and stake.
  • Flight tickets.
  • Hotel in lima.
  • Extra night hotel in huaraz either by bad weather or flight cancellation.
  • Drinks.
  • Meals in lima and huaraz.
  • Personal equipment (sleeping bag, crampon, backpack, etc)





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